proenza schouler pre-fall

This is the last Pre-Fall posting, I swear. But, I had to write about Proenza Schouler, because I have an ongoing struggle with them, where my opinion is constantly changing. Then I saw how GOOD this collection was, and wished I hadn't posted half of the others that I did.

Since they started, I have always been slightly envious of their success and talent; I couldn't help thinking "GDMF!!!! Another Parson's Grad???" But, beyond my initial impression, I don't have a consistent opinion of them. These boys tend to switch back and forth from designing for the young, stylish girls that they surround themselves with to producing collections for the middle-aged Upper East Sider's who can afford their clothes. Just compare their bandage skirt collection from Spring 2007 to their following collection for Fall 2007. Since then, they seem to have found a middle ground that could appeal to both groups, or really the stylish 30 somethings that rule the fashion industry; this can be seen in their Fall 2008 collection.

As for THIS collection, it is once again designed for the Hot Young Things.

photo credit: style.com

There is something so VERY French about it. The layers of neutrals - mixing black, brown, white, navy and stripes is just SO very French - the slouchy chic, the black tights, the leather jackets. And those BOOTS. Especially those grey lace ups. What makes this collection thoroughly American, is the use of sparkle and shine, through the sequins and textured leather; it's that hi-low mix.

I basically want to be this woman. The slouchy, yet totally tailored clothes, the hot shoes and Hanne's hair is just perfection. I might just have to grow out my bangs. I would like think, this is how I dressed while living in Paris, and maybe that is why the collection appealed to me so much. It's got that Isabel Marant/Vanessa Bruno je ne sais quoi that I love so much.

Now, I must get off the computer and watch the inauguration. OMG!!!!!

jan/feb paris vogue + calender

I was slightly panicked when I realized that I might have missed my chance to purchase the December/January issue of Paris Vogue, which always features a special edition calender full of all the newest models for the new year.


While I was still in Portland, I went to all 3 Rich's, and it was nowhere to be found. I went to a few different bookstores down here, with no more luck. Damn that Paris Vogue team that EVERYONE is obsessed with these days. As a last resort I went to one of the sidewalk newsstands, and of course, that is where I found it, right as the February issue is everywhere. PHEW! I was counting on that calender!

This year the photos were taken by Terry Richardson - normally not my favorite for his crotch shots of skinny, naked, American Apparel-esque girls smoking cigs - but this shot was fun. All pin-ups, garter belts, set hair and liquid eyeliner.

photo credit: Paris Vogue

As much as I am a super fan of Paris Vogue, the main issue was nothing to write home about, I was actually way more impressed with the February American Vogue (I know, right?). It was all dedicated to Princess Stephanie of Monaco. As I was not a conscious human being in the 80's and early 90's, she really doesn't mean much to me beyond being a Princess and the daughter of Grace Kelly. I will have to read one of the articles, and maybe I will care more...

stud-a-licious

I was thinking about studding up my Target stripper shoes, to make them look a little less like Shoes From Target, when I saw Rumi's post about her Converse. I was so excited to find my black on black Converse hi-tops in Paris for the same price as I would have paid in the States (Converse usually cost 80 Euros or so...) that I snatched them up. Once I had them, I found they were super hard to wear with pants - especially since black skinny jeans are my daily staple - that they made my legs and feet look like they were painted with black canvas. NOT cute. With tights, or leggings and dresses, they looked great. Anyway, I saw Rumi's Converse and thought that doing mine would be a good test run for my studding skills; canvas is much easy to work with than leather (or pleather).

The sneaks turned out great, though I totally ruined my right thumb nail in the process, it is still sore 2 days later.

Then, last night, I started my heels. I was channeling something Gucci-esque, or as Gucci as Target can get...

I can't decide if I should keep going or not. And please ignore the strange angle of the photos, I do not, in fact, have kankles.

parisians do pre-fall

The French designers seem to stick to the winter-y side of Pre-Fall. That is probably because by the time September rolls through in Paris, the temperature has already plummeted to 45 degrees. The 2 collections worth mentioning are Alber Elbaz for Lanvin and Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga, obvs. Both houses are known for having some of the most expensive and intricate Ready-to-Wear collections, and as far as I'm concerned by FAR the most beautiful. From season to season, neither of them fail to inspire my imagination.

I absolutely love the editorial style of the Lanvin collection. And the sparkles, and that turquoise dress, and those boots...The New Look reference with look number 3 is beautiful. Elbaz always puts a quirky mix of Ladies Who Lunch and Pretty Young Thing into his collections, as seen with looks number 3 compared to number 6.

The pants and the 3 tone tights are pretty awesome in the Balenciaga group. The gorilla arm gloves are absolutely insane, but the fur vest is perfection.

photo credit: style.com

I'm so tired of Pre-Fall, I sort of want to barf. I mean, the Fall/Winter collections are being presented next month. WTF!??!!

bill cunningham

When I was in Paris, for my first season of Ready-to-Wear shows in October of 2007, I first noticed this rumpled old man, hunched over, walking around outside the most important shows with his REAL FILM camera, clicking away and causally chatting with the various fashion big wigs. I could not, for the life of me, figure out who this man was. He seemed to be everywhere and know everyone and everyone seemed to know him too. Finally, on one of the last days of fashion week, when my boss decided to take me to the Stella McCartney show, for which I was devastatingly not prepared and under dressed, this old man, with his camera said "Hello, how's the leg?" while we were exiting the madness at the Trocadero. Who is this man? I thought, how can he know about my bosses leg? Godfrey, always friendly, said "Oh hi Bill. The leg's fine, thanks."

It turns out, this funny old man, was none other than Bill Cunningham of the New York Times. The man behind years and years of street photography and the Sunday Styles feature On the Street. I've been looking at those pictures since I was very young, and they are some of the first swipe I started pulling.

I recently discovered these great Audio Slide Shows on the International Herald Tribune's website. You get to listen to Bill knowledgeably chatter away, he has been in the industry for over 50 years, about the various women and styles that he photographed with his camera that he "uses like a notebook".

Fashion Barometer

Riding High

Keepers

They are a great way to pass 15 minutes. There are more of the fun Audio Slide Shows here.

more pre-fall

For someone who spent 2 weeks stuck inside due to the unseasonably early snow storm, I really didn't hit up style.com enough. I found that quite a few more New York and Italian designers presented Pre-Fall collections, including Rag & Bone, Diane Von Furstenburg, Missoni, Versace, Phi, Narciso Rogriguez and Zero + Maria Cornejo among others.

I find it really interesting to see the different interpretations of what Pre-Fall is by the different designers. Some designers produce somewhat incomplete outfits, with only 1 or 2 pieces and very few accessories, while others have 3-4 pieces and tons of accessories and resemble a more complete look. Also, some designers seem to cater more to later summer/early fall with bare arms and legs and full on sandals, and others have jackets and tights and hats and gloves...clearly catering to colder weather. Personally, I think there is a delicate balance to make a Pre-Fall collection successful. It has to work when the weather is still warm, but easily work throughout the coldest months.

There are 4 designers who I really think got it right:

Missoni





Love the layering of the turtle neck t-shirts under the skimpy dresses...and obviously those patterned tights.

Phi

Diane Von Furstenburg




I love that this group is a little more airy and Summery while still applying to Fall.

Versace


photo credit: style.com

OMG. THOSE BOOTS!!!!! I love the bare leg peeking between the mini skirt and the boots.

The whole Pre-Fall thing really begs the question: In this economy, what is the point???

liberty + nike = sweet sneaks

I first spotted these in the February issue of Teen Vogue. And man oh man was I smitten.

photo credit: nicekicks.com

Now, the angle of this pic is very strange, and makes them look like giant floral beasts. But imagine them in a dainty size 9 (HA!) and they are much more attractive.

Any one who knows me, knows I am obsessed with Liberty prints. It probably started from my infancy when I started wearing the smocked dresses that my mother made me, then the dresses my dolls wore, and then the dresses I made myself. At school, if it was possible, I would include a Liberty print as my print, to base the fabric story around. And don't even get me started about the store in London.


OMG. I almost died. Every product you could ever imagine in every Liberty print EVER. Unfortunately, the GBP was double the dollar at the time of my visit. Bummer. I did hear that the store might be going out of business, I will cry if that is, in fact, true.

Anyway, I will be dreaming of these sneakers in the days of unemployment ahead...