proenza schouler pre-fall

This is the last Pre-Fall posting, I swear. But, I had to write about Proenza Schouler, because I have an ongoing struggle with them, where my opinion is constantly changing. Then I saw how GOOD this collection was, and wished I hadn't posted half of the others that I did.

Since they started, I have always been slightly envious of their success and talent; I couldn't help thinking "GDMF!!!! Another Parson's Grad???" But, beyond my initial impression, I don't have a consistent opinion of them. These boys tend to switch back and forth from designing for the young, stylish girls that they surround themselves with to producing collections for the middle-aged Upper East Sider's who can afford their clothes. Just compare their bandage skirt collection from Spring 2007 to their following collection for Fall 2007. Since then, they seem to have found a middle ground that could appeal to both groups, or really the stylish 30 somethings that rule the fashion industry; this can be seen in their Fall 2008 collection.

As for THIS collection, it is once again designed for the Hot Young Things.

photo credit: style.com

There is something so VERY French about it. The layers of neutrals - mixing black, brown, white, navy and stripes is just SO very French - the slouchy chic, the black tights, the leather jackets. And those BOOTS. Especially those grey lace ups. What makes this collection thoroughly American, is the use of sparkle and shine, through the sequins and textured leather; it's that hi-low mix.

I basically want to be this woman. The slouchy, yet totally tailored clothes, the hot shoes and Hanne's hair is just perfection. I might just have to grow out my bangs. I would like think, this is how I dressed while living in Paris, and maybe that is why the collection appealed to me so much. It's got that Isabel Marant/Vanessa Bruno je ne sais quoi that I love so much.

Now, I must get off the computer and watch the inauguration. OMG!!!!!

parisians do pre-fall

The French designers seem to stick to the winter-y side of Pre-Fall. That is probably because by the time September rolls through in Paris, the temperature has already plummeted to 45 degrees. The 2 collections worth mentioning are Alber Elbaz for Lanvin and Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga, obvs. Both houses are known for having some of the most expensive and intricate Ready-to-Wear collections, and as far as I'm concerned by FAR the most beautiful. From season to season, neither of them fail to inspire my imagination.

I absolutely love the editorial style of the Lanvin collection. And the sparkles, and that turquoise dress, and those boots...The New Look reference with look number 3 is beautiful. Elbaz always puts a quirky mix of Ladies Who Lunch and Pretty Young Thing into his collections, as seen with looks number 3 compared to number 6.

The pants and the 3 tone tights are pretty awesome in the Balenciaga group. The gorilla arm gloves are absolutely insane, but the fur vest is perfection.

photo credit: style.com

I'm so tired of Pre-Fall, I sort of want to barf. I mean, the Fall/Winter collections are being presented next month. WTF!??!!

more pre-fall

For someone who spent 2 weeks stuck inside due to the unseasonably early snow storm, I really didn't hit up style.com enough. I found that quite a few more New York and Italian designers presented Pre-Fall collections, including Rag & Bone, Diane Von Furstenburg, Missoni, Versace, Phi, Narciso Rogriguez and Zero + Maria Cornejo among others.

I find it really interesting to see the different interpretations of what Pre-Fall is by the different designers. Some designers produce somewhat incomplete outfits, with only 1 or 2 pieces and very few accessories, while others have 3-4 pieces and tons of accessories and resemble a more complete look. Also, some designers seem to cater more to later summer/early fall with bare arms and legs and full on sandals, and others have jackets and tights and hats and gloves...clearly catering to colder weather. Personally, I think there is a delicate balance to make a Pre-Fall collection successful. It has to work when the weather is still warm, but easily work throughout the coldest months.

There are 4 designers who I really think got it right:

Missoni





Love the layering of the turtle neck t-shirts under the skimpy dresses...and obviously those patterned tights.

Phi

Diane Von Furstenburg




I love that this group is a little more airy and Summery while still applying to Fall.

Versace


photo credit: style.com

OMG. THOSE BOOTS!!!!! I love the bare leg peeking between the mini skirt and the boots.

The whole Pre-Fall thing really begs the question: In this economy, what is the point???

alex wang does pre-fall

CFDA winner and industry favorite Alexander Wang presented a Pre-Fall collection December 12 in NYC.

It's more of the same for this kid. Lots of black and white knits with some leather and tailoring thrown in for good measure. He's really found his niche dressing the skinny hipsters who live in vintage t-shirts, leggings or ripped jeans, blazers or leather jackets and sky high heels. I'm not saying he's not good at what he does, all I'm saying is that I'm a bit bored with it.

Ennui aside, here are some of my fave looks. I do like the use of the sheer bike shorts, and the lazy biatch in me really likes the glorified sweatpants, but I feel like I've seen them somewhere before?

photo credit: style.com

pre-fall collections

Since when are the Pre-Fall presentations full on runway shows???? This is definitely a new thing, because I was not sending out show requests for the Pre-Fall/Resort collections when I was in Paris. It makes sense that the designers are putting more press into these collections, as they are in the stores longer and sell more than the regular collections due to that time in the stores as well as the looks tend to be simpler and easier for the average customer to digest. But it just all seems awfully excessive to me. When is it going to stop? I know this has been said before by more important people, but next thing we all know, there are going to be collections between Pre-Fall and Fall.

Chanel had a fancy set, snazzy hair/headdresses and 66 Russian doll looks! I doubt this was Mr. Lagerfeld's intention, but with the holiday season it made me think of the Nutcracker (mixed with Starwars).

photo credit: style.com

As always, the above the knee, leather boots are flawless and swoon worthy, especially paired with the frilly, ruffled sweater dress. I love that they have become a staple in the Chanel collections. They are going to go down in Chanel history with the tweed suit and the quilted bags. Some of those looks were for men, all of the men's looks failed to impress me. For some reason the men's look for the Lagerfeld collection are great, but the Chanel looks never seem accessible, and the only man I can really see them in are Karl himself. The most amazing thing about the Chanel presentation is that you know Karl Lagerfeld doesn't really have a design team, he does most of everything himself, while the other designers putting out these in between collections have a million minions working with them to put out these extra looks...

Zac Posen sent down 22 femme fatale looks, in what looks to be a speak-easy. The leopard print fur and fringe brought to mind Lauren Becall from the Bogie days.

photo credit: style.com

We all know my obsession with leopard print. But OMG!!!!!!!!!! They are amazing. It's been a really long time since I've been at all into anything that Zac Posen has done, but he has a fan in me again. Note how annoyed the press looks. They are like, GDMF! I HAVE A MAGAZINE TO PUBLISH!

Doo.Ri presented a concise collection of feminine tailoring. My favorite being the first look with the sheer, beaded tank and the ruffle waistband trousers. It's a funny mix of sexy and edgy (top half and shoes) and ladies who lunch (trousers).

photo credit: style.com

Other designers who put on Pre-Fall presentations worth mentioning were Calvin Klein, Burberry Prorsum, and Narciso Rodriguez.